Vinyl Helium Inflatables--- INFLATING Helium inflatables are very easy to install, however, good common sense is always in order. Good care will bring you years of usage. First, choose an area for tetherering that is free of power lines or other obstacles such as chimneys, cornerss of buildings, etc. The inflatable and its mooring line must not be able to reach a power line in the heaviest of winds. For inflating, choose an area that is smooth and free of debris, especially anything like pebbles, glass chips, etc. A grassy area is great, or, use a tarp. Stepping on the inflatable may puncture it. Do not drag it. Be gentle. Tie off the mooring line to an anchor, such as a tree, concrete buiding block, or fence, etc. Attach the mooring line to the mooring harness--the loop that brings all the lines attached to the inflatable together. Also, attach to a temporary anchor, the single line that extends from the tip of the blimp or the apex of the inflatable. Use this line only to assist iinflation. Do not use it as a mooring line. Now, deploy the inflatable away from the anchor point so that it is spread flat on the grassy or smooth surface. Proceed to the inflation sleeve of the inflatable and insert the neck of the helium tank into the sleeve. Now, with your hand, hold the bottom of the sleeve tight around the neck of the helium tank. With your other hand, turn the helium tank valve open slowly releasing the helium into the inflatable. As the inflatable rises keep it from touching obstacles around it. A blanket over the inflatable helps stabalize it during the inflation. DO NOT OVERINFLATE. Keep in mind, as the day gets warmer, the helium expands and further tightens the walls of the inflatable. In colder weather, the opposite occurs. In warmer temperatures you may not want to use all helium to inflate your inflatable. You can also use some air. You can use a leaf blower to blow air into the inflatable. Usually not more than 25% air should be used in conjunction with the helium. You can use the vac to assist in deflating your system quickly. When the inflatable is ready for launch, be certain your mooring line is properly tied off. Disconnect the apex line and let it hang free. Let the mooring line feed out and allow the inflatable to rise slowly. Usually, every 3 to 4 days some helium may need to be added as the helium molecules do move through the vinyl skin because they are very small. Do not attach any individual lines to any clear plastic anchor loops on the inflatable that are used for banners or as attachments for the mooring harness lines. SAFETY ISSUES Should winds pick up, be prepared to recover the inflatable for safety and its preservation. Do not leave the inflatable unattended. The inflatable must not be able to reach power lines or other obstacles in the highest of winds. Be certain all mooring lines are properly secured and do not rub against an edge in the wind causing it to break. As a precaution, use more than one mooring line. REPAIRS-- Locate tears or holes in two ways. The first, by observance of the exterior of the inflatable, panel by panel. The second, in the case where the hole is not obvious, fill the inflatable with air. You will find a small, round, clear vinyl window in the wall of the inflatable. With a light held opposite the window on the exterior of the inflatable, peer into the inflatable searching for the glimer of light indicating the hole. Move the light around. Eventually you will discover the hole. Using a good tape such as a small piece of furnace tape, draw the edges of the tear together and place a piece of tape over the tear and on the inside of the inflatable. Cut a piece of vinyl from the repaur kit so that the edge of the patch overlaps the edge of the tear. Apply the glue supplied to the surface of the inflatable and the patch. Before applying the patch, let the glue get a little tacky. Apply the patch and apply a weight over the repair making certain that the weight will not come into contact with the glue. Wait 24 hours before reusing the inflatable. |
Banners-- INSTALLATION Against A Flat Surface, A Wall, etc. For the most professional and simplest installation and look against a flat surface, the Banner Mount will give the most professional look and will save a lot of time in maintenance. And the Banner Mount can be used with other banners too. It's a universal installation. It's very simple to change them out with the Banner Mount. Between Uprights--- poles, pillars, posts, trees, etc. Bungi cords are highy recommended when an installation is between two uprights and not against a hard surface. The bungis should be attached to the corners of the banner and led up and away from the banner in the case of the top holes of the banner, and, down and away from the corners and holes on the bottomside of the banner. Don't underestimate the grommets in the middle of the banner. Keep your banner looking good. Use those middle and other grommets and keep it from drooping. CARE-- If your banner is subject to stiff winds order it with wind slits, or they can be added later. Wind slits will prevent streching and tearing the banner. Never fold a banner. Always roll a banner when storing. And roll the banner with the letters/graphics to the outside. Place it on its side as opposed to standing on end. Store in a cool dry place. In cleaning, use a mild detergent. Cleaning will add life to the banner both in looks and time.ver |
A sign is a reflection of your business. How well it is maintained, mounted, kept clean, can be important factors in having your sign do the best possible job for you. No doubt, a sign, a banner that looks unkept, looks dirty, is disintegrating, is not mounted properly, flips in the wind or droops, is not only a bad reflection, but also is not working 100% for you. Subconsciously it will leave a very negative impression on your greatest potential customer, the passerby. Make sure that whoever installs your sign has given the intallation proper attention. |
Magnetic Signs INSTALLATION--- The surface must be metallic and not aluminum. Prepare the surface by cleaning the surface with a mild detergent or solvent--one that will not harm paint. To the area where the magnetic is to be applied, apply a good wax such as a carnuba wax, This will prevent scratches to the paint. When applying the magnetic, be certain that the underside is clean. No sand or dirt should be on the underside as it will only scratch the paint. Avoid elevation changes in the metal surface. Avoid side body moldings. Use a surface that is as flat as possible. Magnetics will not cling to repairs where bondo or any other nonmetallic was used. CARE--- Keep the underside of the magnetic clean and the vehicle paint polished. Do not roll the magnetic. |
Cold Air Inflatables--- INSTALLATION-- Installation is simplest at dawn or dusk, when winds are usually lowest. You will need a continuous source of electricity, 110 volts. Whether the installation is on the ground or on a flat roof, it is very important is that the anchor points (where mooring lines meet the ground or building) be very solid and firm. You do not have to, nor should you, put holes in a roof. On ground installations, old auto rear axles make for very good stakes. Deploy a tarp over the area where the cold air inflatable is to be set up. Unpack the inflatable so that the front is facing the desired direction. "Pancake" the inflatable so that it is spread over the setup area. Attach mooring lines to the inflatable and run to anchor points. Leave just enough slack in the lines so that as the cold air inflatable rises and inflates, it does so uniformly. Attach the squirrel cage blower to the inflation tube. With the lines tied off, turn on power to the blower and allow a uniform inflation, adjusting the mooring lines as the cold air inflatable rises. At different times, you may wish to turn the power off to the blower in order to stay abreast of adjusting the mooring lines. CARE-- Never drag a cold air across any surface. Always carry it by means of a carriage or two people. Depending on size, it may weigh 75 to 100+ pounds. Keep it clean. Use a mild detergent to clean up soiled areas. Never store or wrap it up wet. Serious fabric deterioration will result. Store in a dry environment. Always neatly coil mooring lines when storing. If you simply throw the lines into the cold air system, you will have a very difficult time untangling a big mess on the next intstallation. Always repair any damage as soon as possible. Rips in the fabric should be properly sewn closed. A small hole, about the size of a basketball, may be temporarily hand sewn closed with a carpet needle and thread. |
Installation And Care |
Recommended Banner Installation
TO GET THE MOST FROM YOUR BANNERS:
The most common complaint in the industry is: "The banner I put up was only up for ..... and it fell down".
It is very important to realize that a Banner hung outside can be subjected to numerous forces, some natural, some unnatural. The main reason a banner fails unfortunately is due to substandard installation.
It is VERY important to select the right type of banner for the conditions.
The type of construction and the TEAR STRENGTH of the banner material used are both major considerations when making your selection.
It has been our experience that banners using grommets as the primary point of attachment is the weakest form of construction, NO matter WHAT type of material is used. For this reason, we have elected to use two SUPERIOR methods of banner construction. With our conventional banner construction we use D RINGS encompassed by nylon webbing which we box-stitched into/onto the banner. (Number of D Rings and construction varies with size of banner). Tests have proven that this method of construction increases the burst strength by up to 500% over the same banner using grommets.
HANG-UPS FOR BANNERS (R) is a far superior method of construction, even to D Rings. Using this system eliminates the pressure that conventional banners experience at the points of attachment (on each corner). The Hang-ups system distributes the pressure evenly over the entire banner not just at the points of attachment. Other major advantages are: the system will accept any banner material and the hardware is reusable.
RECOMMENDED BANNER INSTALLATION for Conventional Banners:
RECOMMENDED BANNER INSTALLATION for Hang-Ups Banners:
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THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO REMEMBER ARE:
Use strong ropes, bungees, snap hooks, cables, etc.
Attach and pull the ropes horizontally, not diagonally (see diagrams).
Keep tension in all 4 corners with whatever you use to tie your banner.
If a rope becomes slack go back and tighten it.
Excess flapping of a banner results in tears, cracking & delamination.
Our standard banners come with "D" RINGS encompassed by nylon webbing which are box-stitched into/onto the banner. Tests have proven that our method of "D" RING application increase the burst strength by up to 500% over the same banners where grommets have been used.
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WHAT TO PUT ON YOUR BANNERS:
VINYL GRAPHICS: Because banners are designed to be flexible our recommendations is to use a good 2 mil high performance pressure sensitive vinyl on all banners. Good 2 mil vinyls have better adhesive properties & are more flexible than other vinyls.
ENAMELS (Solvent): Major manufacturers in the industry, produce enamels that work with our Polly, Super Polly, Vinyl & Original banners.
ENAMELS (Water): Water baeds enamels formulated for the sign industry will work on our Vinyl & Original banners (not our Polly & Super Polly)
SCREEN INKS: Inks are specifically formulated for different types of banner materials. You should always consult your supplier for the correct ink for the substrate you are screening on.
Our recommendation for:
Polly & Super Polly: Naz-Dar 3800 series and 9800 Poly Plus
Vinyl 10 & 13 oz: Naz-Dar GV Gloss Vinyl, VF Flat Vinyl, 44000 Fast Dry Gloss vinyl, 9700 All Purpose
Original: Naz-Dar S2 Series Gloss Vinyl, 3700 All Purpose, 59000 Enamel Plus Gloss
The information provided is recommended as a guide only. It is strongly recommended that you pretest all applications prior to use.
The ABC?s of Vinyl Application
Is applying vinyl as easy as it looks? Yes, in most cases. But there is always the exception to the rule. If you are trying to put a stripe down the side of the Mayor's vintage Mercedes Benz outdoors during a 60mph sustained wind - while he is standing there watching - vinyl application can get a bit touchy. Don't ask me how I know, but we will stick close to an ideal situation here and not dig up old memories.
A. Cleaning
The key to vinyl success is cleaning. The best cleaner for vinyl application is one that will not leave a residue. Some cleaners that are widely used but should be avoided are window cleaner, paint reducer and soapy water. These can all be a problem because they will leave a film on the substrate leading to adhesion problems. Special vinyl application fluids are widely available from your supplier and also ideal to use for cleaning. If you have water-based cleaning solvent, it can also be used. The key is the solvent's basic content. A water-based solvent is OK. Oil or other chemical-based solvents are NOT OK. "Water good. Oil and chemical bad." If you need to remove residues or even wax, use some clear alcohol first. Not the stuff in the liquor cabinet, the stuff in the medicine cabinet. For cleaning as well as drying, use regular paper towels. I usually lift a roll or two from my wife's kitchen. She often say's she can't believe how fast she is going through those paper towels! Clothe towels or industrial paper towels can also leave a chemical residue.
B. Applying
Now that your application surface is clean, you are ready to apply the vinyl. This is assuming you have already weeded and applied transfer tape to the vinyl. If not, DO IT NOW! The customer is going to call and check on you any minute! (Phone rings) "Um, yes, I stopped by and ordered a sign from you twenty minutes ago....I was just wondering how you were coming along on that." I always like to answer; "Well I am currently building one hundred and eighty-seven signs from orders I just received this morning. Could you tell me which one is yours?" Then the customer goes into great detail about how his sign is supposed to look. I usually drink a coffee while their explaining all this. When they start getting really excited thinking I haven't dropped everything to work on THEIR sign yet, I say "O-o-o-h-h-h-h yeah. I remember it now." Gets them going every time.
To make positioning the vinyl easier, draw centerlines on the transfer tape both horizontally and vertically. Then measure the centers of the substrate and draw lines. Using a stabilo pencil will make the lines easy to wash away later. You should now have a cross hair on your vinyl and a cross hair on your substrate. This will make positioning the vinyl straight and level a breeze. Just line up the lines!
Wet down your substrate with application fluid. If fluid is not readily available, pure water will also work. Untreated fresh water is best. If your shop is supplied with chemically treated water, you should find some that is not treated to use. If you are applying a large area, it is ok to spray the adhesive side of the vinyl as well. Both surfaces wet will make the vinyl easier to position correctly. If you are working on a table that is a little less than waist high and you are using lots of water, be careful not to lean up against the table. The table will be sort of wet along the edge, and this will leave a damp spot on the front of your trousers. Well let's just say that if someone walks up behind you and you turn around quickly, it looks rather embarrassing. Just a little helpful advice to remember.
Line up the lines (I've heard that somewhere before) and squeegee out the fluid. Start the squeegee in the center of the cross hairs and pull down or toward yourself. Work from the centerline to the right, then from the center to the left. Put the squeegee in the center of the cross hairs again, and push up or away from yourself. Again, work to the right then to the left. While you are working be careful not to do the same area twice, it may cause an air bubble. By dividing the area in half, squeegeeing the bottom half then the top half and always working out, you will get out all the fluid and trapped air, and not stretch the vinyl.
Start squegee at centerline and work towards you
Doing the bottom half first, work to your right
Then to your left
Again, start at the centerline and work the squeegee upward
Now doing the top half, work to your right
Then to your left
C. Wrapping it up
Let the vinyl set for at least 90 seconds for initial bonding to take place. Remove the application tape at a 45-degree angle starting from the top left, pulling toward the bottom right. If it removes rather hard, soak it with application fluid or water, let it soak a few minutes, and remove. Now clean the applied vinyl and substrate to remove any tape adhesive and pencil lines. Dry and you're done!
Famous Last Words
These are the basics of vinyl application intended to increase your productivity and quality of your vinyl graphics work. With time and experience, you could become as much of an expert in the vinyl field.
All surfaces must be considered dirty and must
be cleaned prior to application.
A good rule of thumb for cleaning various surfaces is:
be cleaned prior to application.
A good rule of thumb for cleaning various surfaces is:
| SIGN MATERIAL | CLEANER |
| Painted Metal and Wood | Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), also known as Denatured Alcohol |
| Glass | IPA or Vinegar/Water Mix (Cleaners such as Windex Window Cleaner may also be used.) |
| Acrylic and Polycarbonate | Non-siliconized Acrylic Cleaner and anti-static rag to remove static charge and last minute dust |
| Banners and Awnings | IPA or Vinegar/Water Mix |
| For Expanded PVC sheet | Vinegar followed by a quick wipe with Toluene |
II.
TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
Air and application surface temperatures must be
above 40 degrees F for non-reflective
and 55 degrees F for reflective markings
or the vinyl will have trouble adhering to the surface.
III.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
(FLAT SURFACE ONLY)
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A. Use
1" - 2" strips of masking tape to position decal in proper registry. |
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B. Apply horizontal tape hinge at the top of the marking. |
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C. Remove liner
entirely while keeping exposed adhesive off substrate. Lightly spray water and soap solution (1/2 part liquid dish water detergent to 991/2 parts water) on substrate. |
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D. Allow marking to drape. Using firm initial squeegee pressure, begin at top center and work down and outward to each edge of decal. E. Allow adhesive to bond... (generally 15 to 30 minutes.) |
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F. Remove premask at 180
degrees. (pull back on itself). |
